Hi-jack: Goose toobs

dunno what happened to the list there.. was pretty on my screen!?!

I'd like to see pics of  that.

This is how I did mine.

goose tube

I was thinking of using cable ties?

Both are very good ideas.

How much do your really get into these tubes.

And weight wise

I thought of doing that but then I must always use the pannier, plus that must add quite a stress onto the pannier box itself..

The way I did it allows me the freedom to use some version of soft luggage, or even none at all.

On the roads I find myself, cable ties just wouldn't last. Besides, my toob is quite heavy, 2 x tyre levers, small hammer, aluminium plumbers wrench, BMW toolkit, various spanners, vice grip point nose pliers,philips and flat screwdrivers.

Good points.

However i hardly ever take my panniers off, and I never ever have them in the 'small' position. They also look damn cool there

I don't think they'll add any stress to the panniers, even fully loaded with tools.

I originally wanted to position them where you got them, but didn't think they'd fit.

What if you haven't got panniers? Any ideas?

post some pics mr stripes, would like to see.

I just realised, looking at Mr Stripes drawings, that he does not have the standard panniers.

His idea would not work n the standard pannier setup.

As it is attached.

I did the work at a farm workshop, so yes, returning home made it dirty. (that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it!)

Materials-wise, the farmer had the steel (both plate and strapping) lying around the workshop. I have another goose tube I'll be attaching on the other side, for med kit, petzl light, duct tape.

as it looks for the rear.. showing how padlock attaches. The idea is to keep the passing thief at bay - anyone with a set of allen keys could remove the entire bracket.

yes, the tyre remodelled the number plate! There is sufficient clearance even if the tyre does that again.. (naughty tyre!) .. there will be no way that the chain meets the tube.

from the front - the tube is about 30mm below the fuel tank, despite it looking too close here.

looking down you can see that the steel plate is attached to the footpeg stabiliser bar using a strap also made from the steel strapping. Attaching it there ensures the plate will never droop, to interfere with any pannier.

The lock strap. Set far enough back on the lid and locked to a piece attached to the backing plate, the strap cannot be pulled forward enough to allow the cap to come off.

Very nice.

I searched that entire bike - there's nowhere I could see to attach them neatly, short of

(a) possibly right where a top box would go.

or

(b) on the sides next to a top box bracket.

Personally I would attach brackets if at all possible, just for the "crash bar" safety it gives the fuel tank and sides of the bike

(plus making it easier to slide on ice  )

or

(c) across the rear of the bike above the number plate, below the rEar light.

The brackets I have are Kappa, purchased from Adventure Rider in Northgate Island, Cape Town.

The only usable place I could find is on the right hand side, behind the rear footpeg for the bottom bracket and underneath the petrol tank. Behind the tank, under the seat in the mudguard area, is a dropdown hanger to which an extension can be fitted to which the top bracket of the tube can be attached. I intend to make the extension in such a way that I will be able to attach a lock like Mr Stripes have done.

The tube will limit the use of the rear peg a bit but, as Madie has her own bike, the rear peg on my bike is seldom used.

Right rear footpeg: I plan to attach the tube to the back of the footpeg triangle.

Dropout hanger

Dropout hanger 2